Today is a real test for those of us coming from the modernity. Though the 10Km distance is same as yesterday, the ascent is 1000m at the altitude of 3000m+. Acute mountain sickness is the risk and we may be forced to give up Muktinath and even the Annapurna Sanctuary. At start, the slope is already 1:6 and we cautiously slow down our movement to adapt to the environment. Outside Kagbeni, it is mountainous ground and briar is only plant in this deserted area. On the opposite side of the valley is the balded Mustang with no faint of plant except rock and soil.

At the entrance of Khinga, traces of green expand from here quickly and covers the river flowing valley. More villages are in sight and we are tempted to buy some apples when passing through Khinga towards Jharkot. The lunch in Jharkot is a kind of celebration for us passing the high altitude test.

The last couple hundred of meters to Muktinath is steep but we all finally make it. Muktinath is the first stop on the west side of the infamous Thorung La Pass, the highest point of the Annapurna Circuit with an altitude of 5400m. Besides, it is also a pilgrimage highly destined by the Hinduist and Buddhist. For that reasons, Muktinath has a high flow of tourists and pilgrims. To secure our accommodation, we therefore have to send one of our porters early in the morning from Kagbeni.

2Km up from the village is the Muktinath Temple distinctively fenced by a white wall. The enclosure is about 3-4 times of a normal size soccer field leaning on the slope of the mountain overlooking the entire Muktinath region. Entrance is free within dedicated opening hours. The main temple is restricted to Hinduist but visitors still can visit the 108 waterspouts behind the pagoda. The chilled water from the spouts does not deter the thin-clothed pilgrims from bathing publicly, even it's only 6℃. They consider that the water from the spring purifies their body and soul. Not far away stands another small temple that holds the eternal flame. The tiny bluish flame is beneath the altar and has never gone out since start. Inside the area, one can feel the peace of the blessed ambiance - acute mountain sickness seem to have no foothold here.